The Roof of the World
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Leh - Laddakh |
Area:
98,000sq km |
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Its landscape, sky, shooting stars, silence, wizened faces, rosy cheeks, dragons and Zen – everything makes Laddakh a quite place to visit. This ethereal cold desert that goes by names such as ‘The Last Shangrila’, Moonscape, Little Tibet and so many others – all of which ring true, is a land that seldom fails to baffle or surprise. |
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The start and rugged landscape is situated amidst multiple-hued mountains, some smooth enough to rub your cheeks on, others scraggly as though termites have had a go at them for breakfast. Miles and stretches of this never-never land, surprised by quaint little vibrant green hamlets oozing wild roses and lavender, fringe the life-giving Indus River. Ladakh is a land like no other. Bounded by two of the world's mightiest mountain ranges, the Great Himalaya and the Karakoram, it lies athwart two other, the Ladakh range and the Zanskar range. |
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In
geological terms, this is a young land, formed only a few million years
ago by the buckling and folding of the earth's crust as the Indian
sub-continent pushed with irresistible force against the immovable mass of
Asia. Its basic contours, uplifted by these unimaginable tectonic
movements, have been modified over the millennia by the opposite process
of erosion, sculpted into the form we see today by wind and water. |
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Occasionally, some stray monsoon clouds do find their way over the Himalaya, and lately this seems to be happening with increasing frequency. But the main source of water remains the winter snowfall. Drass, Zanskar and the Suru Valley on the Himalaya's northern flank receive heavy snow in winter; this feeds the glaciers whose meltwater, carried down by streams, irrigates the fields in summer. For the rest of the region, the snow on the peaks is virtually the only source of water. As the crops grow, the villagers pray not for rain, but for sun to melt the glaciers and liberate their water. Usually their prayers are answered, for the skies are clear and the sun shines for over 300 days in the year. |
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Leh has quite a few interesting places on offer. You could start with the captivating Leh Palace that rises from the edge of a hill overlooking the town and stretches out towards the indigo sky. Irrevocably reminiscent of a picture-postcard of Lhasa’s Potala Palace, this deserted edifice has a definite mystical quality about it. |
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The Palace was built in the middle of the 16th century by King Singe Namgyal and still belongs to the royal family that now lives in the Stok Palace. The nine-storeyed monument has gone to seed, so don’t visit the site expecting too much. You might not be able to get in at all as the palace remains locked, unless of course you ask around and find a monk who can open it for you. The Palace has a museum with some tangkhas (painted or embroidered scrolls) and paintings amongst other things. The view from the monastery is quite impressive.Roosted above the Leh Palace is the Namgyal Tsemo Gompa (monastery). The enigmatic stark structure stands on a steep hill looming over the town. Built in 1430 by the Namgyal rulers, the red monastery has some frescos, Buddhist scriptures, idols and a massive statue of the Maitreya Buddha (future Buddha). The splendid view from the top alone is well worth the effort. The striking Shanti Stupa is a recent structure. A Japanese who harboured the ambition of spreading Buddhism across the world, had it constructed in 1985 with aid from the Japanese Government. The stupa is connected by a ‘motorable’ road and a steep flight of stairs. Once on top, you can stop for a snack in the tea shop, then relax and enjoy the panoramic view of the chain of mountains and the peaceful little village of Changspa with typical Ladakhi houses built along a gushing stream, and the towering Namgyal Tsemo in the distance. There is a rudimentary Sauna Spa not far from the Shanti Stupa in Changspa Village that offers a soft drink in the sauna! The striking green and white Leh Mosque in the Main Bazaar is also worth a visit. The mosque is open only to men. This is also a good place to find out about the possibility of doing voluntary work with various organizations. If interested, inquire at the reception centre or simply check the information board. Leh offers some delightful walks, especially around Changspa Village. Just take any of the cobbled lanes in the village and feel free to carry on as you please. It is impossible to get lost in this tiny village. The lanes and by-lanes curve around colourful Ladakhi houses with brightly-painted windows overlooking little gardens blossoming with cosmos, poppies and hollyhocks. The village is dotted with prayer wheels where you might see some locals turning the symbolic wheel. A network of narrow canals channel the river water to all parts of the village, so you can never be far from the gurgling sound of flowing water and patches of wild irises growing around the banks of the canal. Bunches of little children with sunburnt rosy cheeks and sparkling eyes will greet you all around the village with the all-encompassing greeting jule (hello, bye, thank-you and please) that you must be all too familiar with by now. In case you do feel a little lost or disorientated, just ask any local and he will be happy to show you the way. |
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Leh Festivals Losar
- The Buddhists of Ladakh celebrate Losar as their new year. Before the rule of Jamiang Namgyal (1555-1610), this day was considered to be the first day of the Ladakhi Buddhist year, which is based on the moon and sun similar to that of the Hindus.
However, Losar was advanced by two days as Jamiang Namgyal decided to invade Skardu before the new year. Since then, Losar is celebrated on the last two days of the lOth Bodhi month, which coincides with December of the Christian calender.
Losar is celebrated with traditional gaiety and fervor. The festivities include illuminations, drinking, dancing, singing and general merry-making. Men come out of their homes with torches of wood which are whirled round and round. People visit each other's homes during these celebrations, which continue for many days. |
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Monasteries Leh
Located on the Leh-Srinagar highway, the Lamayuru Gompa dates back to the 10th century and is known to be the oldest house of faith in
Ladakh. The monastery is also famous for being one of the most picturesquely-located monasteries in
Ladakh. It belongs to the Kagyupa Order of Buddhism and is believed to have been wrecked and reconstructed several times. The monastery is home to some of the finest frescos, carpets and tangkhas (embroidered or painted scrolls) you’ll see in the region. The prayer ceremonies in the gompa should not be missed. |
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